Himalayan Adventure
Part Two
Road to Gispa
Day 1 On the road Monday 9th September.
Bunked in with Jiban, who I was to share with for this trip, we get on well and were both up early to enjoy a fine day. The clouds were lifting as the sun was spreading down the valley. It was going to be a fine day. Jiban got some tea brought `to the room and we looked out from our first floor balcony. This was the Marigold Hotel in Manali. Not sure if it was the best but it was fine for us you had to use a padlock to secure the door when leaving the room.
Ready for the day with the cases packed and in the foyer to be loaded on the back-up truck and time to go for breakfast. I had tea, two boiled eggs and toast and took two more eggs for lunch. My plan was the travel on chai and boiled eggs and not eat any street food otherwise my diet would have to include Imodium. My haversack contains all the travel stuff, water, eggs, lip balm, suntan cream “Poo Kit”, One piece waterproof over suit, camera, pullover, jerry can hip flask full of brandy, spare gloves and over trousers. This was strapped to the rear carrier of the bike with one long bungee cord wrapping it around until it all felt secure. I was wearing a bum-bag that had passport, visa and money in a sealable plastic bag. All this in case I took a tumble in a water fall and got soaked. Having found my Himalayan in the bike park we were given numbers for our group. I had a choice and chose 89 which is 68 up-side down. Not one I would have normally chosen but apt I thought. It was stuck on the front mudguard. With some trepidation I waited with all the gang to get ready and taking auspicious photos before firing up the bike and starting the procession out of the town.
Down the steep slope around the tight turn, made another horlicks of that one again. The road was just wide enough but it was a concrete platform and no room for error as it had no barrier and a two foot drop off. Then through the town centre, down the hill, along by the river, across the bridge and up the other side. Much the same route as we had taken last evening. Out of the town I stopped to take a few photos. The scenery looked Tyrolean with trees and mountains. Still very green even though Manali is 6726 feet above sea level. The group stopped regularly to keep together and with an hour we had stopped for a break. A drink of water and buy some biscuits and chocolate at the cafe-cum-shop. I had put the eggs in the side pocket of the haversack. Unfortunately the bungee cord had cut across the pocket and turned one of the eggs to mush so to make things tidy I ate it. I put the remains of the biscuits and chocolate in the top of the haversack when we moved off. There was more picture taking of the gang with the mountains as the back drop.
Progress was slow as we wound our way higher and higher. On one stretch there was a white horse walking along a path that was coming up from the valley to my left not far away. My lapse of concentration had me straying off the tarmac at the edge of the road and on to the dirt got my mind focussed again and raised the heart rate a bit. There was a steep bank to the path where the horse was. A quick pull on the bars and I was back on the black stuff again. Jiban was following and said later about me straying off the road. It was sharp reminder that you have to have your wits about you all the time. We climbed and climbed passing through short areas where the tarmac had been washed away leaving rocks and mud that was so fine and made the road very slippery. Climbing still we rounded a bend and were at Rotanghi pass at 13051 feet. It was sunny and warm. My first activity of walking at that altitude left me a bit breathless. I would have to take things slowly for a bit. At the pass were the usual shrines and pennants along with traders selling food, drink and fruit. Corn seemed to be the favourite and there were a number of places roasting cobs on open fires. There were allot of people there.
It was around lunch time and I thought I would have chunk of chocolate. It was warm in the sun and had had turned the chocolate to liquid. I scooped most of it out of the wrapper and used a tissue to clean it off the inside of the haversack. I won’t do that again. After the pass the road had its ups and downs but we were still going higher.
On some of the bends the tarmac had gone leaving rubble and puddles. The spring snow melt had washed the tarmac away and the military were up there repairing the damage. It was only at this time of year was it dry enough to repair the road. There were convoys of military lorries full of soldiers doing just that. Where the road was being repaired there were more lorries than space causing long queues that, on bikes, did not slow us down but the filtering was interesting running close to the edge of the road with little room for error. It made my experiences of filtering on the M25 like a pleasant Sunday afternoon ride in the country. The roads to our first overnight stay were better with fewer puddles and mud patches. The mud was the fine silt from the rocks as they are eroded by the climate. This is also what makes the river water blue. The last forty kilometres were on good roads and didn’t take long. We went through the small town of Gispa at 10500 feet and along the river until we were waved down to descend a cart track. It was bumpy and rutted and not nice at the end of the day. At the bottom of the track and next to the river was our camp site where we were to stay the night. I parked my Himalayan with the other bikes in a line near the rivers’ edge.
It was quite flat but narrow with not enough room to ride a bike through a turn. In the main tent hot tea was waiting for us and time to get the brandy out of the haversack. I had two. It was agreed that the brandy I bought would be kept for chai and emergencies. The backup truck arrived with our suit cases and we were allocated our tent for the night. It was pleasant by the river listening to the roar seated on garden chairs beneath a gazebo sipping from whatever bottle that was being passed around, but as soon as the sun went down so did the temperature. Once in the tent I unpacked a thick jumper, scarf and beanie. We were to share a double bed and the tent had an en suite in the next compartment. A proper loo that was on a concrete plinth that you had to step up to, a sink with only one tap and the usual bucket and jug to wash with. No hot water until the morning. Water went away through the ground. The floor had a bit of carpet on but was mostly fine chippings. I could have done with flip flops or slippers.
Dinner would be served when cooked. Outside the main tent a large bonfire was keeping everyone warm, except me. I stayed warm in the main tent sipping now and again from the hip flask and writing up my notes of the day. I was tired and as soon as I had eaten I retired to the tent to get some rest. This is when I discover the mattress is standard Indian and rock hard. I had put on a thick pair of woollen socks when I changed into my pyjamas. I kept my scarf and beanie on. The bed was freezing. I don’t sleep well on a hard bed as my shoulders tend to seize up if I turn on my side. Cold and uncomfortable it was around 1:30 in morning that I finally got the bed warm and, according to Jiban I was snoring from three until day light. He did not sleep a wink .
Cold night in Gispa 140km .
Tuesday 9th September









































