Part Three
Sarchu
Day 2 Birthday on the road.
Up earlier than I wanted to be. Hot water would not be ready until eight and we needed to have our suitcase packed and delivered to the back-up truck by then. I washed in the small amount of cold water available, not much as the pipes had frozen over night and nothing much was coming through. The toilet didn’t fill properly. By eight the sun had started to enter the valley and the frost was being driven away. The tents were back from the river and the view from our tent was of a porcelain graveyard where tents had, at some point in the past, been pitched. Today I had on my thermals and a jumper to keep me warm. As I was packing I found my birthday card from Gita and opened it. I had nowhere to display it so it had to go back in the envelope. I did try it behind the light switch wires but that only lasted a few seconds before it ended up on the floor. Breakfast at eightish, more like nine and I get birthday wishes from everyone including the other group of riders that are with us until tomorrow and they go off on a different route. It is confusing as I don’t know everyone’s’ jackets and bikes yet so at times I was riding with the other group. No one minded. Finally, about ten thirty, we are on our bikes, lined up and ready to go up the cart track and on to the road. One by one we set off. I left plenty of time to be able to clear the track and not get held up at the top as there was loose sand there and it would be difficult to get going again. Even so I caught the guy in front and had to slow a bit but not enough to get me bogged down. I had made the slope and now on tarmac life was easy if not a little cold. Today I was wearing over trousers, not only to keep out the cold but keep the mud splashes off my jeans. The mud would brush off when dry but it took a bit of doing. Not a job I wanted to do. Heading onwards and upwards, the road kept climbing. After a series of tight bends the group abruptly stopped. There was a waterfall crossing the road and we would have to ride through it. Our first “Water Feature”. Ravi indicated the route through which was on the right track and shallowest. I thought to myself wet feet time and do NOT fall off. A couple of bikes ahead of me and someone did. They had gone too slowly, lost momentum, hit a small rock and slowly topples to the left. They were helped up and out of the track by Sham. They only had a wet left arm. Two more riders and it was my turn. Take it steady, keep the back brake lightly on like doing slow speed riding and give more power to overcome the drag and off I go. All was going well until I hit that rock. It sent me to the left over the central ridge towards deep water. I pulled hard to the right and gave a big hand of throttle that straightened the bike up and sent me to the edge of the waterfall and on to dry tarmac with all my effort to make the bike go to the right my left foot was off the peg and dangling. I went up the road a bit and parked with some of the other bikes. It was posing for photo time.
Drive through by Sagar .
Everyone was in the waterfall for a group picture. Once the back-up truck arrived we carried on to the next feature which was a beautiful small lake, shimmering blue and more photos. The roads were deteriorating with less tarmac and more uneven rock and rubble. There was an insignificant pass we went through and I spotted a sign for it Pasito at 15650 feet and on to Baralachala Pass at 16,040 feet.
The road dropped down to our next “Water Feature”. Much more disconcerting as it was like navigating a river that flowed down the road. Down a slope through the stream make a left turn and through another stream make a right turn and follow a gravel and rock road to a raging torrent that Ravi went through, and Jiban followed and promptly fell off getting the bike drowned and the start of his problems. He was dried out so was the bike that needed an oil change to remove all the water. While that was going on an alternative route was used. This was into a modest stream to the right and then left over a bridge and then right down another stream and this time a waterfall that was in the road. I had to wait for some army trucks to cross the bridge. I was stopped out the way on a gravel patch, in the dry waiting for them to pass. One decided he wanted my space that the other trucks had passed easily by and he wanted me to get out of his way up a steep rocky bank. I moved a few feet forward. Just enough for him to clear me if I leaned the bike to the right. He managed to get by and I had enough room to get the bike straight to get across the stream and on to the bridge.
I was learning about this Himalayan. It was OK cornering on tarmac, predictable if it started to slide and had a straight on complex going over rough stuff keeping on line even though rocks were pushing the front wheel to one side. As long as you had enough throttle on it would keep going where you pointed it. I crossed the stream again and stopped for a bit to assess the traffic situation. Ravi was at the in the road waterfall and he waved me on. I was back on the bike and going down the stream again. I had to stop because a couple of 4X4s could not pass the waterfall. The soldiers were repairing the road by dumping rocks to rebuild it. One 4X4 had gone through and I was next. After the soldiers had decided to part so I could get through Ravi said I should use the back brake on the descent. I had an odd problem with the brake in that the “tractor tread” would let the open type of pedal slide into the tread giving variable positions and clinging to the boot sometimes. I used the back brake, some throttle and slipped the clutch to get the right type of progress and caught up the 4X4 who was travelling slowly. He parked up and I then had a clear run through a deep puddle and then had to squeeze between waiting lorries and a rock face before getting onto a wide stoney but dry road. I breathed a sigh of relief. It was a difficult bit of terrain we had just navigated. Shortly after this we had a lunch stop. Chai, boiled eggs and some soup added to my diet. It gave time for Jiban and the backup truck to catch up. The roads improved to smooth tarmac as we approached Sarchu. We were camped alongside the main road that went straight across the plain out of the town at 14070 feet. There was a prevailing cold wind that cut through you like a knife. Tonight would be cold. I went to bed in thermals, Pyjamas and a thick jumper along with my thick fleecy socks, beanie and scarf.
What a way to spend your birthday.
Sarchu 80km Tuesday 10th September



































